Bulletin Board 10

The ultimate summer shoe, my French Negroni, and some summer shopping.

HAPPY HOUR

I shared a video of me making a French Negroni recently, but I wanted to give you the back story and how-to here. Traveling around France, this mysterious logo, ‘Suze’, seemed to follow me around. Whether I was hunting through vintage ashtrays and cafe bottles, or looking through old Tour de France catalogs, there it would be. I even saw the advertising painted on the walls in villages I drove through. I searched out the real thing in a shop to try it, and did some research on it: it’s a very specific, herbaceous, bitter drink that’s been around since the late 1800s made from the Gentian flower, in a process that takes over a decade.

While the French have traditionally taken their Suze just over ice, or with a splash of tonic, I couldn’t shake the idea of trying to incorporate it into a French Negroni. To do that, I took three ingredients that to me felt very appropriate: the Suze, some Noilly Prat Ambré (the unicorn of vermouths), and a London dry gin called Gilbey’s. (Sure there are plenty of great French gins on the market, but most are not readily available in my area, and while it may seem un-French to use a vintage London dry gin, the brothers who started Gilbey’s in the late 19th century, also happened to own Chateau Loudenne, which is just down the road from our French home—so there is a French connection. Some may be tempted to compare this to a white Negroni, but to me it’s a different beast entirely: first of all the result is yellow not white.

The French Negroni

1 part Gilbey’s gin

1 part Noilly Prat Ambré (Note: This is tough to get your hands on, but can easily be replaced with Lillet Blanc.)

1 part Suze

Serve over ice in an old fashioned glass and garnish with a peel of grapefruit.

SUMMER UNIFORM

I don’t have many summer dressing rules, but when it comes to footwear I just live in my espadrilles. (Particularly in Europe, though I’ve since graduated them to the States.) In my younger years, I was apprehensive about wearing them, because I felt they were too feminine, almost like a ballet slipper (I blame my small foot.) Then I got to France, and saw that everyone from construction workers to the guys driving the vineyard tractors wore them. Now, I kick off summer with new, cheap pairs from beach shops and grocery stores, (my favorite are under the $10) and wear them to death from Madrid to the Médoc straight through July and August, and well into September.

There’s just so much to love: Squash the back of the heel down and they’re a slip-on for quick trips to the pool or market, but flick it back up and suddenly you’ve got a covered foot, which is super helpful around mosquitos or when the evening chill shows up. They pack flat, they’re super light, and because they look a little more polished than a Birkenstock, they can be dressed up all the way to a fancy restaurant (I’ve worn them a ton with linen suits). That said, they also function in very much the same way as a Birk – I don’t care about getting them wet, I wear them around the house as a slipper, I don’t mind if they get dusty and muddy, and I’ll happily spray them down with a hose every so often and let them dry in the sun. Actually, they get better that way, as each pair patinas and bleaches uniquely.

Plus, they provide an opportunity to play with color that I don’t normally get. I buy them in bright blues, stripes, light greens — I even have a red, white, and black pair that I love. Still, whatever shade you choose, though, you’re also allow you to blend in as a potential local.

MAILBAG

Some recent arrivals…

Pommella Trousers

This incredible atelier out of Naples makes probably my favorite trouser. I first met Gianluca Migliarotti and his team at a trunk show at the Armoury, in New York. They made me a pair of grey flannels that I love so much, I’ve twice brought them back to full health from moth attacks. But I felt it was a shame that I could only wear their trousers in the cold months, so I had them make me a khaki pair for spring and summer. They just arrived, and they’re amazing. They’re a button fly, single pleat, full through the thigh, and come to a nice but not extreme taper. (I always get them cuffed, too.) I especially love the waistband, which has a ring tab system similar to what you’d find on a Gurkha. They look military, polished, and Italian, somehow all at the same time. You do need to get fitted (which the team can do virtually, too) and they’re an extravagance for sure, but every pair is made in Naples, the finishing is the same quality whether you opt for bespoke, made to order, or ready to wear, and you don’t need to own dozens. While I have three pairs and I’m covered for the year, it doesn’t stop me from eyeballing some of their most famous fabrics like their Zegna woolen denim in off-white and some heavy brushed cottons by Larusmiani. Their next New York trunk show will be October 11-14.

WM Brown x Hemingsworth Flynn Sunglasses

These new aviators I’ve made with Hemingsworth — in two sizes — are a riff on some old acetate aviators that my Dad had, but we also took influence from a picture of Errol Flynn wearing a pair just like this on his sailboat. I just really felt that there was a deficit in the market for an acetate pair of Aviators, and our result, tooled from vintage dead stock Italian acetate, is a true limited edition of something really special, with the attention to detail that can only be achieved when every step of the process is executed by hand (including the max-comfort sprung hinges, and the metal insert to strengthen the arms.) The size of the Zeiss lens gives you full coverage, but is compact enough that I don’t worry I look like a bug while wearing them. Importantly the brown lenses, which match the frame for a tonal look, are also not too dark, so you’re always able to see clearly. The glasses are made in England by the very best of the few remaining traditional workshops capable of such skilled work.

Métier Overnighter

Finally, I took delivery this weekend of this suede overnight bag from Métier. Beyond how handsome it is, there’s just no shortage of clever touches, from the multiple carry options, including a removable padded shoulder strap, to the full-access zipper (so it opens like a suitcase) and subtle outer loop so it can slide right over your actual suitcase handle… There’s also a magnetic outer pocket so I can quickly pull out books and magazines, and a secure outer zipper for my passport, keys, etc. Can this bag possibly remedy my overpacking issues?! We will see as I test drive this bag through Greece in a couple of weeks!