Tailor Made
The argument for custom
At least once a week I get asked, usually in a DM, for advice on where one should get a suit or piece of formalwear (like a tuxedo or dinner jacket) made. Here goes—but first, let’s define a couple of things to lay the groundwork: Made-to-measure (or MTM) begins with a standardized pattern, and then basic body measurements are taken—jacket and sleeve length and shoulder slope—as well as options like jacket and pant style, cloth, and buttons. There is generally one fitting at the end to make any minor adjustments. MTM will always be a better fit, although it’s usually going to be a bit more expensive than standard off-the-rack product. Bespoke, on the other hand, is when a garment is made entirely from scratch. A new pattern is made for you from custom measurements, with multiple fittings to make adjustments, often when the garments is in different states of production, before it is finally finished. There are no limits in cloth choice or design with bespoke. And because there are endless options (the sky’s the limit!), bespoke garments can get incredibly expensive, and the process can be overwhelming deciding on all these details, like fabric etc.
I had my first MTM made years ago once I felt I could afford to do so. It was at little shop in Nolita called Seize sur Vingt. I liked and bought many of my shirts there and felt this was the shop that should make my first suit. The fabric was a worsted wool in navy blue. Getting this suit made, for me was a real sartorial milestone. Before this adventure, my suiting was an off-the-rack affair from some of my favorite retailers like Brooks Brothers or Agnes B. Look, I think there are some great off-the-rack suiting options out there, and if you are blessed enough to walk in and out with a great looking and fitting suit, I commend you. That, my friends, is not my case.
In recent years I have become friends with tailors and designers who have led me down the path of bespoke clothing. The learning curve is incredible—understanding the construction process, language, fabric and trimmings is a lot. A good tailor will patiently walk you through all this. I have chosen my tailors wisely, based on their house style, which simply means I like the style of clothes they make. This usually boils down to the width and notch of the lapel, the taper of the pant, or the construction of the final jacket and the shoulder. (I like a mostly unconstructed jacket with a soft shoulder.) Ultimately I like that they are easy to communicate ideas with. Now, as a guy with a not an off-the-rack body, in constant need of tailoring tweaks for a fit I like, bespoke has spoiled me. These genius, now trusted men, have hidden a multitude of my physical limitations with their tailoring skills. I appear taller, fitter, broader and even have a waist, thanks to clever tailoring.
This is what makes having a suit (or formalwear) made specifically for you worth every penny! If you’re ready to take the deep dive into this world, and this is going to be your first custom garment, this is my advice: choose a two-piece suit in a color (like navy) and fabric (like a three season wool) that can be worn as separates; the jacket alone with denim, or the pants paired with a cashmere turtleneck or your favorite chambray. This will guarantee a long life of wearability for your suit. For a tux or dinner jacket, think of timeless style and design—Frank, Sammy and Dean wore the same tuxes for decades and never looked out of style. I bought my first tux in the 90s at Brooks Brothers, once I started getting invited to black tie affairs (weddings and bar mitzvahs) and it was just silly and not very cost effective to be renting every time. But because I leaned into the style of the day rather than classic pant cut and jacket lapel, there are many things wrong with it, and, needless to say I will not be wearing that tux any time soon. I’ve also bought vintage well-tailored jackets, suits and tuxedos if I was lucky enough to find a garment whose former owner was close to my size—and then had my tailor make minor adjustments. This is a great formalwear option to consider that will save you a pile of money.
Once you have had more than one suit made for you, I think you can start taking risks in terms of style and cloth. You can move out the world of navy and gray and make a garment with more color or pattern. I leaned into this with producers like Fox Brothers and Harris Tweed, to make more bold garments—think Negroni tweed!
Once you have sorted out your suiting I highly recommend getting a couple shirts made. Having something tailored and made specifically to your taste and body style will make you feel really good when you are wearing that new suit. Your new found bestie—your tailor—can help you with this journey as well. Far more than a person just making you clothes, your tailor is your shrink, your coach, your motivator, your confidante, your dietician. I’m going to go so far as to say that custom tailoring is good for your health: not only have you made an investment in a piece of clothing, but an investment in yourself—that you will stay fit enough to remain in that garment. I know for me this is the biggest motivator to stay in shape. When that first struggle happens with closing a button I have to check myself. Remember the measuring tape never lies and I do not want to be spending money letting things out, ever. I owe it not only to myself, but to the whole team that painstakingly made my garment, from the fabric mill to the sewers, to stay in shape.
Below is the short list of players that I am recommending because I have personally done business with them all. Please keep in touch with any other options in your neck of the woods so we can spread the word.
Additionally I have had shirts made by:
Burdi in Chicago deserves to be on any bespoke and MTM list. All their bespoke and MTM are made in Italy with only the most beautiful fabrics. They are incredibly knowledgeable and very, very fun to work with.
This resonates with me; I put in my first order (of 2 suits that can be worn as separates, a tux, and a sport coat) with Steven Hitchcock in November (with a subsequent trip for fittings in late January during that fun snowstorm in NYC; as an aside the Carlyle and Bemelmans were amazing hosts for our snowy weekend). I wanted British drape and flowing lines coming out of my 20s with Neapolitan suits (Formosa from No Man Walks Alone) that were clean and sharp and beautiful and made for a me 10 years younger and 20 pounds lighter. Steven and Celia are amazing, and the tux arrived in time for my brother’s wedding at the beginning of this month. Great guy and great work he does, including cutting everything (and taking all of my measurements) himself