Your skin is your largest organ and taking care of it should be a priority. The skin is strong, protective, powerful and it can heal itself, but it is often ignored, taken for granted, and neglected by most men. Because it takes a lot of abuse in the summer from sun, heat and general exposure, I had a chat with my dermatologist Dr. Lance Brown to get some general summer skin care advice. I’ve been seeing Lance for my skin afflictions for many years, to the point that I now have him in my favorites, texting him photos of bug bites, rashes, infections and suspect moles from around the world. Part of our interview was published in the summer issue of WMB, but this our entire conversation, along with some of my favorite sun protection products below.
Is it possible to tan responsibly?
I know that people love the look of a tan, but your skin truly suffers for it and, unfortunately, there is no such thing as a healthy tan. Skin tans in an effort to repair itself from the sun’s UV rays. The underlying damage can lead to skin cancer, premature aging and wrinkles. Even one sunburn exponentially increases your risk of developing skin cancer. First it is important to remember that sunscreen is only one part of a sun protection strategy. Using sun protective clothing, wearing a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses and seeking shade should all be part of the sun protection plan.
When considering sunscreen, remember that SPF only refers to UVB protection, therefore using a broad spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen with a minimum SPF30 is a must, but the higher the SPF the better. The most important two things to remember are to apply very liberally, and to reapply often, every hour if spending the day outside. The average person should use about 1 oz of sunscreen to cover the face and neck properly—about the volume of a shot glass.
What is the best type of sunscreen to wear on the face to not look like a lifeguard?
As far as sunscreen, there is no one best choice. There are two types of sunscreen: chemical and mineral. Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing the sun's rays to protect your skin, so they need to be applied 15 to 20 minutes before sun exposure. They need to be applied more frequently than mineral sunscreens as they break down upon sun exposure. There are concerns that chemical sunscreens are unfriendly to the natural environment, such as coral reefs.
Mineral sunscreens act as a barrier to the sun's rays and physically block the UV wavelengths and don't need to be reapplied with the same frequency as chemical sunscreens. The key ingredients are zinc and titanium, which are less likely to cause skin irritation, thus better for sensitive skin. Some mineral sunscreens can leave a white-ish cast on the skin, however, thanks to zinc nanoparticles, there are many formulations which rub in very nicely and are invisible. Consistency is important when it comes to sunscreen, because thickness can impact the way it sits on your skin. Someone looking for a formula that won’t feel heavy or greasy might opt for a lightweight formula, while someone with dry skin might want a thicker, more nourishing sunscreen.
My lips get more sunburned than my body. What’s the best way to protect them?
Finding a lip balm or lipstick with an SPF of at least 30 is a great start. Remember to reapply lip sunscreen more frequently than sunscreen to the rest of your skin, due to eating, drinking, and frequently licking your lips. Reapplying every hour is a good rule to follow.
How to deal with summer breakouts?
Use a light and gentle foaming cleanser during summer months, as well as lighter, oil free and non-creamy moisturizers. Choose moisturizers that are light in texture and fast absorbing. Using a gentle toner to unclog pores is also helpful. See your dermatologist to create a specific acne regimen for your skin. There are a variety of topicals and cleansing pad based medications that can be prescribed to help keep your skin less oily and acne free.
Do I really need eye cream?
Eye creams are creams that are specially formulated to treat various conditions that target eyelids and under eye concerns. These may be for dryness, wrinkles or dark circles. The truth is that few topicals can remedy existing wrinkles or dark circles, however by providing good moisture to your eyelid skin, you can prevent worsening these concerns, and even camouflage some of them. These products are formulated to be gentle for the delicate skin around the eyes. Some eye creams deliver antioxidants, retinols or other ingredients that can provide nutrients to the skin that prevent or slow down the aging process. The visible results from these are usually very subtle, but the moisture alone from many of these creams offers benefits. It's important to have realistic expectations for what eye creams can offer. Cream alone is not enough to eradicate wrinkles, hollows or dark circles.
I have sensitive skin and don’t like fragrance. What should I be using?
People with sensitive skin often have a weaker skin barrier, which allows irritants from certain ingredients or preservatives to penetrate the skin more easily and retain less moisture. Gentle, fragrance-free moisturizers and cleansers are the best choice. Brands such as Cetaphil or Cerave are a good choice for sensitive skin. Although many people try to use "all natural" or “plant based/organic" creams and soaps, these products may have their own set of issues, especially for sensitive skin. Many botanical or all natural products may contain "natural allergens" from plants that can lead to allergic contact dermatitis. Products which contain tea tree oil, lavender oil or Vitamin E are some of the most common causes of allergic contact dermatitis seen at the dermatologist's office.
Anything I should think about putting on post-shave?
Using a gentle moisturizer post shave helps retain hydration in the skin without aggravating razor burn. For those who often get razor bumps or ingrown hairs after shaving, try applying an over the counter benzoyl peroxide foaming cleanser under your shave cream before shaving. Always shave with the grain, not against it, as this worsens ingrown hairs. If necessary, your dermatologist can prescribe a topical antibiotic lotion or gel, such as Clindamycin to apply after your shave.
How often should I be visiting a dermatologist?
It is important to see your dermatologist at least once a year for a total body skin examination to screen for skin cancer and irregular moles. If you or a family member have had a history of skin cancer, you should go twice a year. If you have any concerns about chronic skin conditions such as eczema, acne or psoriasis, then you should find a dermatologist who can treat and monitor your condition, as these conditions may be chronic and require regular follow up.
Some of my favorite sunscreen brand that I have field tested under all kinds of conditions and perform well from the bonefish flat and boat to poolside—MH
Sunbum: I use the SPF 30 and 15. It holds up great under wet conditions, smells like OG summer and is in a cream and aerosol. Their lip balm is good too.
ISDIN: This is Spanish brand I recently discovered that is highly recommended by many dermos. I use the 30 SPF gel cream and the Hydro oil that has what they call “pro melanin technology” to protect and tan responsibly. These products are fragrance free.
For the face I use the Danish brand Riemann P20 in SPF 30, or if I am in France I will pick up La Roche-Posay Anthelios in SPF 30.
Lastly, in a pinch, I will use good old Coppertone Sport SPF 30. This is for sure sweatproof and waterproof—it just is in the upper end of the very chemical sunscreen option.
What I like about all these products is they do not have many complicated ingredients or fragrance, (except the Coppertone) they absorb immediately, aren’t greasy, and won’t leave you with a white cast on your skin. Most importantly, they really protect you from the sun.
Photo from the archive of Paolo di Paolo
How can I get in contact about a smathers and Branson order?
Thanks, Matt. My esthetician recently recommended a mineral sunscreen called Tizo 3 which I have been enjoying. It's fragrance and oil free for more of a matte finish. The consistency is like a mousse and the best thing, this particular version has a tint to it which gives me a little color after applying. Looks extremely natural and sometimes I even wear it in the evening.