Bulletin Board 34

An easy fall kitchen favorite, vintage cold weather classifieds, and a dispatch from the Audrain concours with A. Lange & Söhne

CAR TALK

I love car shows. I’ve been going to them ever since I was a kid, from the most mom-and-pop variety to the top concours quality. I was lucky enough to be invited to the Audrain Newport Concours by A. Lange & Söhne, one of my favorite watchmakers, which has seamlessly integrated itself into the classic car world and is now a major sponsor of the event. 

The first day is when the car clubs come in. These aren’t just show cars–these are really passionate daily drivers. This is always one of my favorite days because I love to see what people are driving and collecting on a more modest scale, from 80’s stock Ferraris to cool factory-made VW 4x4 Golfs. I love the hands-on, tactile quality of this part of the show– often daily drivers owned by car fans. 

In the morning, the concourse cars go on a drive, and at the end they park on the streets of Newport for folks to walk around and check out. I couldn’t help but think about these priceless Ferraris and Bugattis just out on the street, accessible to anybody to lean on, touch, and, god forbid, even scratch them with some belt buckle or baby stroller?  But I also found it very charming and thoughtful that the owners understand that these cars are meant to be seen up close and not treated in an overly precious way. 

The A. Lange & Söhne - Lange 1; photo by James Stacey

On the next day, I walked from my hotel down the seaside path to the concours on the lawn of a beautiful mansion. There was a beautiful A. Lange & Söhne booth with their amazing watches, watchmakers, and engravers–it was so interesting to see the complexity that goes into their craft. I got to wear the Lange 1 in pink gold while I was hanging out in the booth, drinking ice cold German beer and smoking a cigar (as seen in the above photo!). Then it was time to walk around and see some beauties. I love the scale of this show because it’s not overwhelming–it is very well edited and isn’t too big. Also, there isn’t a fussy dress code! And in that sense, it does remind me of the mom-and-pop fairground shows I used to go to on weekends with my dad. At the Audrain the car quality, rarity and variety are massively elevated–a great event for people like myself that just love to be around and look at classic cars.

THE CLASSIFIEDS

This week, we’ve called up some of our favorite vintage sellers and eBay watches to give us the lowdown on the best deadstock or previously-owned outerwear on the market today. Our dais includes Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers, Brian Robinson of C. Woodcock & Co., Richard Birkett of The Major’s Tailor, and lastly, the anonymous IG account @rlgrails, which consistently turns up some of the best Ralph up for resale. We’ll let them shout-out their best inventory and finds below. 

Brian Davis, Wooden Sleepers

Vintage Falcon Brand Hunting Down Jacket: A real gem for the label nerds out there! Falcon Brand Down Filled Product, S.E. Woodes Limited, Hull P.Q. Canada for Von Lengerke & Antoine (VL&A) Chicago, a sporting goods store purchased and operated by Abercrombie & Fitch in the 1920s through the 1960s. Incredible red color and down fill make this a standout piece. $750.

Vintage Belstaff Trialmaster Jacket: This 1960s era Trialmaster has been fully restored and is ready to wear – no stink! Excellent fit and perfect for a size 40. It’s an icon for a reason. Few jackets make a guy look cooler. $1,495

Vintage HBT Shooting Jacket: This 1950s HBT shooting jacket is a statement piece for sure, but can work well day to day as well as for its intended purpose. $425

Vintage 1960s L.L.Bean Field Coat: I love a vintage field coat and this 1960s era one from L.L.Bean feels like the quintessential version. Rigged duck canvas beautifully worn in. Faded green corduroy collar and signature pocket system makes this a no-brainer for the field or the city. $395

Richard Birkett, The Major’s Tailor

RAF Extreme Cold Weather Ventile Parka: Quite simply, the best jacket ever made. Designed for the RAF in the 1950s, this heavy parka was designed for use in the most extreme conditions. This example is from the 1970s and comes in a great size. $1,350

US Army WW2 Tanker Jacket: An iconic piece of American vintage, the US Army Tanker jacket. These were worn by soldiers in every theater of the war, but most famously by Robert DeNiro as his most notorious character, Travis Bickle in the 1976 movie Taxi Driver. $87

US Navy G1 Patched Flight Jacket: These iconic jackets were worn by US Navy pilots from the 1940s to 1990s, and most famously appeared on Tom Cruise in the 1986 classic Top Gun. This example dates from the early ‘60s and was worn by a US Navy test pilot. $1,000

Belstaff 1970s Red Racing Trialmaster: A Matt favorite, the Belstaff Trialmaster. This 1970s example in a bright red color was made for motorcycle racing teams and has now faded through use with a lovely patina. A vintage classic. $750

Brian Robinson, C. Woodcock & Co

The Classic Woolrich "Pedro Type" Jac-Shirt: My absolute favorite jacket-shirt or "jac-shirt' of all time—the red and green plaid Woolrich "Pedro Type" —is the perfect choice for the holiday season. Originally issued in the 1960s as a collaboration with the Boy Scouts of America, the Pedro brings back memories of making s'mores, singing songs, and telling ghost stories around the campfire. While early versions are 100% wool, the later wool-blends are cozy without the itch, shrink resistant, machine washable, and virtually indestructible. Cut from a medium weight three-season cloth, this beauty will keep you singing "kumbaya" in comfort from September through April. $149

Vintage Abercrombie & Fitch Wool Duffle Coat: No coat is better suited to crisp fall afternoons spent watching football in Princeton's old Palmer Stadium (RIP)  than the classic British duffle. Warm, stylish, and an Ivy style staple, the duffle is my go-to coat for winter. I grab mine for walking the dog when the snow is deep, or for running errands when the wind drives temperatures into the danger zone. Despite its historical association with the Royal Navy, the classic duffle actually originates from the town of Duffel in Belgium. The toggle buttons, typically made from wood or horn, are secured through loops of rope or leather, allowing sailors to fasten their coats with relative ease. The blanket structure of the coat made movement easy on rolling decks and patch pockets allowed for no-hassle access. With the addition of a hood to keep the wind and spray off a sailor's head, this coat has been a seafaring "must have" for over a century. If you are looking for a stylish and functional winter coat, it's impossible to beat a duffle. $224

Vintage Abercrombie & Fitch Hudson Bay Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat: A stunner from the 1950s, this double-breasted 100% wool mackinaw coat is cut entirely from a classic Hudson Bay 3.5 point blanket. I love this coat for its warmth, its classic outdoor style and the bright red coloring that simply screams "O Canada". Hudson Bay Point blankets are part of the cultural fabric of Canada and they have been converted into outerwear by trappers, first peoples and fashionistas, for over 200 years. The mackinaw style has its own unique history dating back to the War of 1812, when British troops garrisoned on Michigan’s Mackinaw Island found that they had ample winter blankets but no proper winter coats. They improvised, and made short, double-breasted coats from their Hudson Bay point blankets, and the mackinaw coat was born. This stunning 75-year-old Abercrombie & Fitch example sits at the apex of the style’s development. $449

@RLGRAILS

Polo Ralph Lauren Tartan Balmacaan: Everyone wants the camel hair polo coat. Particularly the PRL model from the Corneliani era of the brand (1998-2014). Problem is, for a used item, made of fabric that no one wants to admit wears down relatively fast at the both the collar and cuffs, it's just a pretty big ask with these resellers now have the hubris to command up to $2k for a jacket that is sold, and can be had on sale new, for only $500 more. The Balmacaan is another option for scratching the 'big coat' itch, and this one, certainly isn't "grandpacore" either. $750

Polo Ralph Lauren Corduroy Jungle Jacket: Despite some objections over ‘stolen valor,’ Vietnam-era jungle jackets with slanted pockets are all the rage right now in niche menswear groups. So much so that the price of vintage models circa 1969 has pretty much been fixed at $140 by all the online sellers, regardless of condition. If you're looking for something in-line fit wise but maybe want to skew less “menswear enthusiast who only wears shell tassels or Belgians Loafers”, take a look at this olive corduroy version that Polo did, now available pre-owned on Depop. £112.

Polo Ralph Lauren Pea Coat: I think enough time has passed since peacoats found themselves in the spotlight. 13 years ago when Skyfall came out, guys went wild for the Billy Reid version that is still a mainstay in their collection today… But despite looking good on Daniel Craig’s Bond at the time, that model skews a touch too fashionable for my current tastes given the narrow shape of the lapels and tighter wrap of the db buttoning. On the flip side, standard naval issue jackets, a la those worn by the MacManus brothers in Boondocks Saints, are a bit too difficult to dress up. With Ralph Lauren, who’s been making them forever, you can find a happy in-between. Only difference is this time around you really should size up to accommodate some oversized Aran and Norwegian sweaters. Pair that with a fitted red beanie and you’ve got the full look. $224.95

THE KITCHEN

As we enter the season of cool weather and long braises, I’m bringing out a favorite entry from my book A Man & His Kitchen, my vinegar-braised short ribs, which give a lot of flavor bang for your time buck. This recipe is also great for dinner parties—it serves six with leftovers.

Vinegar-Braised Short Ribs

I use cider and red wine vinegars in this recipe because I like the sweetness, tang,

and contrast you get from the combination of the two. Serve the ribs and their

gravy (reduce it in a saucepan on the stovetop to thicken it, if you want) over

polenta or mashed potatoes. I especially love pan-braised cabbage on the side.

Ingredients

3 to 4 pounds (1.4 to 1.8 kg) beef short ribs

Coarse salt and freshlyground black pepper

Grapeseed oil

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled

5 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tablespoon red cherry pepper paste (such as Cento brand hoagie spread)

1 teaspoon anchovy paste

1⁄4 cup (60 ml) apple cider vinegar

1⁄4 cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar

2 cups (480 ml) beef or

chicken stock, homemade  or store-bought

Polenta, for serving

Prep

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

Season the ribs well with salt and black pepper

Heat a Dutch oven or a large lidded cast-iron pot over medium-high heat. When

it’s hot, add a generous glug of grapeseed oil. Brown the ribs on all sides, turning

them with tongs and working in batches if needed, about 8 minutes. Transfer the

ribs to a plate and set aside.

Add the onion, carrot, garlic, and 2 sprigs of the thyme to the pot and cook, stirring until soft—5-8 minutes. Stir in the red cherry pepper and anchovy paste. Return the ribs to the pot and toss with the vegetables. Pour in both vinegars and the stock and bring to a gentle simmer.

Transfer the pot to the oven. Cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes, then cover and

cook for another 2 hours or so (the ribs are done when the meat falls off the

bone). I usually uncover the pot for the last 15 minutes to let the ribs brown a bit

before serving them over polenta with a bottle of your favorite red wine.

Serves 6