Bulletin Board 26
Making the case for the travel tray, dressing like a '90s romcom lead, and a summer scent inspired by tailoring.
THE VALET
A while back I picked up an English-made travel tray from The Andover Shop. Afterward, I felt a little silly: this style of accessory, which is made by many other brands including Ghurka and Ettinger, can feel like the sort of thing you buy because it looks good in store but that you never, ever use.
Well, I was wrong. The little leather square, whose corners can be unsnapped so that it lays flat in your luggage, proved super useful. Whether I was staying in an Airbnb for a weekend or checking into a hotel abroad, the first thing I’d do upon arrival was fish it out of my luggage and snap it into position on the nightstand. Instantly, I’d have a home base for my watch, wallet, keys, notebook, pen, and all the other little objects I don’t want to spend the morning of my check-out frantically trying to locate.
The only real danger is leaving the tray itself behind, which I happened to do while visiting Italy last month. So, I ended up buying a replacement—this time in a racing green Bridle leather—with the knowledge that it would be money well spent. -E.T.
MY UNIFORM
For most people, “Old New York” is just a romantic ideal. But Tug Rice lives it.
The Pennsylvania-born, Manhattan-based artist has built a successful career illustrating the ideal of a gentler and all-around more elegant age, through collaborations with rarefied brands like Halcyon Days and Scalamandré and grand old hotels including The Carlyle Hotel and The Ritz London.
High falutin' clientele notwithstanding, Tug is a remarkably approachable and down-to-earth soul. It’s a contradiction reflected in his daily dress, which is simultaneously elegant yet easygoing, ever-charming yet never trying too hard to impress (though he certainly knows his way around a black tie rig). All of which is to say that he makes an ideal candidate for our “My Uniform” questionnaire. -E.T.
What is your standard color palette, and does it change seasonally?
After making many errors, I’ve realized I don’t look good in light colors or pastels of any kind. So I try to stick to earth tones—browns, olives, rusts, etc.–and, although those are more natural in autumn, I think they work in any season as long as the fabrics are appropriate. There seems to be a trend right now in figuring out colors for your wardrobe based on your own palette and I think that’s fun. It’s just a matter of sharpening the instinct for color, the way a painter has to study it.
When you think of your wardrobe, what are the basics that come to mind first?
I am a jeans guy – just about everyday. The simpler and more classic, the better. I also love oxford shirts. That combination, with or without a sportcoat, is pretty much my uniform. I can get into most restaurants that way and I rarely feel either overdressed or underdressed (both of which I hate).
Favorites in the following categories…
Trousers
I love corduroy anything, and I have a pair of teal corduroy trousers from Paul Stuart that I wear often in the fall and winter. I’m not so big on pairing trousers with disparate blazers (though many guys do it well) so if the occasion calls for it, I’ll usually opt for a suit.
Knitwear
In cold weather I live in Shaggy Dog sweaters from J Press. With a lighter wash jean, I feel like the leading man in a ‘90s romcom. But I’m also a diehard turtleneck wearer. I love chunky fisherman sweaters and roll necks.
Footwear
Year-round I wear my brown suede Mr. Casual Belgian loafers. They’re starting to really show their wear, which is great because it roughs up an otherwise very polished look. They are also the most comfortable shoes to wear on a plane and not cumbersome to travel with. I’m a sucker for black Chelsea boots (any time of year) and I just bought a pair of fisherman sandals that I plan to wear all summer.
Neckwear
My favorite place to buy ties is Turnbull & Asser. They tend to pull inspiration from their archival designs and the one I love the most has a kind of Ricky Ricardo in Technicolor vibe.
Outerwear
Good outerwear can hide a multitude of sins. I will never stop wearing my corduroy coat from Drake’s–I fell in love with it when it was in that amazing lookbook they shot in Oxford several years ago. And it only gets better with age. It’s my favorite article of clothing I own and, even if it’s hanging by a few threads someday, I’ll still wear it.
What's your travel kit?
Navy blazer, white oxford shirt, Levi’s jeans, brown leather belt, Belgian loafers, swimsuit (you never know), black and white T-shirts, a sweater or two. Sample sizes of my favorite colognes (lately, Penhaligon’s Cairo and Green Irish Tweed by Creed).
What’s your style advice when traveling across different climates?
Part of the fun, of course, is leaning into the style of wherever you’re going–even if in a generalized way. When I started going to England more often for work, Cad & The Dandy made me a gorgeous tweed blazer, pink and blue check, that feels very weekend-in-the-country but also works well in London. So, the tweed keeps me warm when it gets chilly but it also puts me right where I am, story-wise. (I also have a pheasant pocket square I wear cheekily when I’m there). Another example would be wearing Nantucket reds, which are meant for New England but I’ve worn in other parts of the world, too. Have fun and embrace the story.
THE SCENT
Boston’s Newbury Street was recently graced by the opening of a Santa Maria Novella boutique. The Florentine perfumer—which was founded by Dominican friars all the way back in 1221—was a welcome change from the ho-hum mall brands and fly-by-night boba shops that have otherwise colonized the shopping street.
When I first dropped in I was greeted by its manager Chuck Martell, who graciously invited me to select a scent on the house. My first go-around ended in confusion, as I was equally split between the house’s famed Tabacco Toscano and the smoky, leathery Peau d’Espagne.
Ultimately, this two-way race was broken when Chuck introduced a third contender, Eva. The unisex eau de cologne was debuted at Pitti Uomo in 2002 and somehow inspired by the Prince of Wales pattern—already music to my ears—but as ever, it’s the nose that makes the final decision. The woody scent is bracingly dry—suggesting, interestingly, the musty pages of a leather-bound book—but accented with a sufficient amount of dried citrus and peppery spice to place it in the summer rotation.
As a way of explaining its connection to the Prince of Wales pattern, an image of which appears on its box, Chuck described it as a softer, more sophisticated scent that can be dressed up. I happen to agree, and have already earmarked it as my “dress cologne” for the months to come, though I’ve already been known to apply it while simply clad in a polo shirt and a pair of shorts. -E.T.
Nice one Eric!
Adding “Eva” to the top of my list of new scents to try out. I have the Tobacco Toscano but it’s running a little low 😅